http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/10/us/politics/obama-says-same-sex-marriage-should-be-legal.html?smid=pl-share

If you are interested in having a custom piece of jewelry made below is information as well as images of custom projects describing different fabrication methods used in our design process.

Wax Models

Many of our rings start out in wax before they get cast into metal. The process is called ‘lost wax casting.’ The wax we work with is not quite like candle wax but has more plastic, making it easier to carve. Certain changes are easier to make when the design is in wax before we cast it in metal. When the design is complete, we take the wax model to a local craftsman in Philadelphia who will make a mold of our model.  A one time use plaster mold is made from that wax. The wax is melted out of the mold and metal is poured into the mold through a process called centrifugal casting. The piece is then cleaned and finished in our shop. If pieces need additional work in wax we will make a rubber mold of the model as well.  A similar process is used for our non custom pieces which are reproduced from the rubber molds that we keep at our studio.

CAD

Depending on the design of the piece, we may choose to design your ring through computer aided design (CAD) software.  CAD designs are usually best for pieces that cannot be carved by hand, pieces that have strict dimensions or very symmetric designs. When the design is complete, the file is sent to a 3D printer and is printed directly in wax. The CAD designed wax model then goes through the lost wax casting process as described above.

Metal Fabrication

Not all designs need to be carved in wax and cast. When a design is made and formed directly from metal it is called fabrication. If we fabricate a design, we will take careful measurements from our sketches and then cut, form and solder the design from either sheet metal or wire.  One example of a fabricated design is our aldine band. Each ring is braided by hand and then formed and soldered. All of our hammered bands are also hammered by hand, which is why there are differences in hammer strokes on each ring.

If you’re interested in a custom design project, we are happy to work with you. Below is an introduction to how the process works.

For custom design pieces, the more information we have the better. The more time you spend narrowing down your ideas and thinking about your design the smoother the process will go. Before we can provide an estimate or a preliminary sketch, we will need to know at least some basic information about the project: general design idea, metal(s), stones, size(s) and dimensions if needed. Sketches and pictures of your idea is a great place to start. It’s okay if you cannot draw but providing images or links to similar pieces is very helpful. For example, if you want a ring with a floral pattern, please provide photographs or pictures of a similar pattern. Or, if you have seen two rings that you like and you would like qualities of each, having pictures of both would be helpful. Please keep in mind we cannot replicate another jeweler’s design.

We also recommend spending time on our custom design page , blog  and reading our custom design questionnaire . The custom design questionnaire will walk you through the questions we will ask when beginning the process. You don’t necessarily need to submit the form, but it’s helpful to know ahead of time the decisions you will have to make.

We will do our best to come as close to your design idea as possible, but we must take into consideration the practicality of the design, the security of stone settings and the durability of the piece.  We will not work with designs that do not meet our standards for structural integrity or security of stones. If you are interested in having a custom design made below are the four steps of our custom process:

1.The first step of the process is a complimentary consultation based on photos and ideas. Before we can provide an estimate or a preliminary sketch, we’ll need to know the basic information about the project: general design idea, metal(s), stones, size(s) and dimensions if needed.

2.Before we get started on the piece, we ask for a 50% deposit or payment in full.  Once we receive the deposit, we can provide more detailed sketches and make changes as necessary and will be in contact via email, phone, or in store consultations.

3. Based on the final sketch, we will provide additional 3-Dimensional models if necessary. Certain custom designs do not require wax or metal models. When we begin the project, we will evaluate your design and will use the most practical fabrication process.

4. After we get the final approval from you, we will complete the design in your chosen materials.  Once the custom design is ready, we will contact you for the final payment. We can ship the jewelry to you or you are more than welcome to visit our Philadelphia showroom to pick-up it up.

We do not accept returns on custom work. We do our best to communicate with you throughout the process so you know what you are getting. If you change the idea or major elements of the design, the price and time estimate will change accordingly.

Custom designs usually take about 4-8 weeks from finalizing the design to completing the piece. Once again, this depends on the complexity or simplicity of the design. If we are having difficulties trying a new fabrication method or sourcing a stone, the deadline may be extended.  Regardless of the amount of time, we will be sure to keep you updated on the status of the project.

The Mohs scale of mineral hardness was developed by German mineralogist, Frederich Mohs in 1812. The scale is used to characterize stones relative hardness and scratch resistance.  The method of determining hardness is by testing the ability of a harder stone to scratch a softer stone. The scale ranges from 1 to 10 with 1 being the softest and 10 being the hardest.  One thing to keep in mind is that the scale is purely an ordinal scale. That being said, sapphires are twice as hard as topaz and diamonds are four times as hard as sapphires, despite their numbers on the Mohs hardness scale.

A mineral’s hardness is its ability to resist scratches. A mineral’s toughness is its ability to resist being fractured.

Below is a list of some of the most common gemstones we work with, including their ranking on the Mohs hardness scale as well as its toughness.

*Toughness scale: poor, fair, good, excellent

If you are looking for a durable stone, diamonds, sapphires and rubies are the best options.

There has been a lot of talk about a new gemstone around the Bario-Neal shop recently–new for us, and still fairly new in the jewelry industry too. Zultanite, as it’s called, is very rare. It exists in its pure, gemstone quality form in only one very small section of a vein of bauxite that runs all the way from Greece, through Turkey, and to India. That section is deep in the mountainous Anatolia region of Turkey in a province called Mugla. Unlike many gems, Zultanite is a completely natural, untreated stone. It has a neutral green color, subtly changes hues under different lighting sources, compliments skin tones, and sometimes exhibits cat’s eye properties. There are no chemicals or treatments used to enhance the gemstone.

I had never heard of Zultanite before a couple of weeks ago, when we received a package containing a palmful of these green-toned sparkling gems. They’d made the long trip from eastern Turkey, all the way to our little Philadelphia shop on the corner of 6th and Bainbridge. We are just starting up a relationship with the company that mines and distributes them, and are currently working on a custom Asymmetrical Avens Ring that features Zultanite as the center stone.

A bit of background: Zultanite’s mineral name is diaspore, and it is found in less pure forms in the emery deposits of the Ural Mountains; in Chester, Massachusetts; and in kaolin deposits in Schemnitz, Hungary. The first gem-quality crystals were discovered in the 1970′s in the very place where they are mined today, but were not mined commercially until the Milenyum Mining Company obtained mining rights from the Turkish government in 2006. Zultanite first received attention when gemologist Richard T. Liddicoat  was taken with a 26.04 carat apex fan shaped Zultanite at the 1999 Tucson Gem Show.

Before we felt comfortable using and promoting the stone, we had to ask Zultanite (the company takes its name from the gem) a bunch of questions regarding its origins, especially the environmental and working conditions at the mine. Here is some information we’ve gathered so far:

First, we were wondering about the ethics of the process, especially pertaining to the working conditions of the mine and at the cutting facilities. Victoria, a U.S. rep., told us that the working conditions are very good at the mine. The physical environment in and around the mine is ideal because of its location in southern Turkey. Despite the rain and lower temperatures, which rarely drop below freezing, of winter, the mine tunnels stay warmer than outside, and in the summer, the tunnels remain cool.[1] The houses where the workers sleep during the week are new and comfortable (they were constructed in 2006), and their meals are prepared by a chef who used to cook at a local hotel. She sent us the photos below of the workers on their lunch break and working in the mine. As you can see, it’s all on a very small scale.

miners having lunch

miners washing rough stones

As for cutting, the Zultanite that we work with is cut in Canada, the USA, and Germany, and can only be cut by master cutters because the rough mineral has a perfect cleavage in one direction, making it very difficult to cut properly. Standards for cutting in these three places are very high, safe, and professional, unlike many of the places where diamonds are cut, where you can’t be sure if unsafe practices and child labor are being used. Only 2-3 percent of the original rough will end up as a cut stone, and only an eye-clean stone will exhibit Zultanite’s color-changing properties. Both of these factors increase the necessity for expert cutters.[2]

We also asked questions about the environmental impacts of the mining process. There are no chemicals used in the extraction of Zultanite, as everything is done manually and mined in the old-fashioned way. There is no running water or electricity at the mine–they use their own generator–because it is in such a remote place. This keeps the mining activity at a relatively slow pace and on a very small scale. Victoria says that the two owners of the mine,

Mr. Murat Akgun and Mr. Yoshi Kirsch, are both environmentally conscientious, and care very much about the the ethical, fairly mined, all-natural image that they have worked to create for this gemstone, and wouldn’t want to do anything to jeopardize this. Mr. Akgun is at the mine himself and oversees the day-to-day operations.

Mr. Akgun finding a vein of Zultanite

Mr. Akgun became familiar with the dialogue surrounding “green mining” and “fair trade” when he first attended trade shows in the U.S. in the early 2000′s. In an article from the Rapaport International Diamond Conference, 2008, Diana Jarrett writes, “When (Akgun was) informed that ethical mining was becoming “the big thing” in America, he was incredulous. “How else would you do business?” he countered”.[1] Yes! We agree.

The only other main source of income in this region is olive farming, which creates revenue during only part of the year. The mine has contributed to the local community in positive ways: “So far, we helped the village mosque by donating truckloads of bricks. The imam was able to finish the closing of the roof with our donation,” says Akgun. The mosque serves as a shelter for homeless and others in need.[1] Zultanite acts thoughtfully and conscientiously to create an environment of solidarity with the community. Akgun buys water, groceries, supplies, and baked goods from the nearby village, provides employment opportunities with higher than normal pay, and rents heavy equipment from locals.[1]

Through his efforts, it’s apparent that Akgun believes in creating long-term stability through proper treatment of miners and the surrounding environment and community. That is something we can get behind!

If you’re interested in more reading, you can visit Zultanite’s website, zultanite.com, and view the reference articles listed below.

[1] Rapaport Report, October 3, 2008, http://zultanite.com/photos/in-the-press/PDF/006.pdf

[2] Rapaport Report, November 7, 2008, http://zultanite.com/photos/in-the-press/PDF/007.pdf

Page talks with Alex Twersky, Vice-President of Finesse Diamonds about ethically sourced Kalahari diamonds and Finesse’s patented 88 cut.

 Can you talk about the relationship between the Namibian mine and De Beers? Many of our customers don’t want to have anything to do with De Beers because of its bloody history. How are customers assured that the Kalahari diamonds are not just a positive PR campaign for De Beers?

De Beers suffers from a bad public relations problem There is a reason why De Beers earned a nasty reputation and is associated with bad corporate behavior. However, the De Beers of today is not the same as the one 50 to 100 years ago. Firstly, they are no longer a monopoly. They were forced to change their practices because of all the terrible press and market pressures. If you are a consumer looking for a diamond with a verified origin, there are very few mines in which you can buy the stone and have it be certified. Currently, De Beers is the only major diamond supplier that you can buy a diamond that has a verified origin.

The largest mine that De Beers operates is in Botswana. The Botswana mine is a joint venture between the Boatswain government and De Beers in which the Botswana government owns 15% of the mine. One of the reasons why Botswana has the social progressive programs that it does is because of the capital generated from the mine.

De Beers has a very similar relationship with Namibia in which Namibia owns a portion of the mine, however, it is not as extensive as the Botswana arrangement. Because of its image, its partnership with the governments, and to some extent its dependency on these countries’ resources, De Beers has a big stake in operating fairly. There is a collision of interests between these African governments and De Beers as a corporation.

One of the unique aspects of the Kalahari project is that the cutting is done in Namibia opposed to being exported overseas often times to facilities that endanger their workers’ health because of insufficient environmental oversight. Will you talk a about the cutting and polishing facility in Namibia?

In both Botswana and Namibia, the governments wanted to see the diamond mines offer a greater benefit to the people, and encouraged De Beers to create the polishing and manufacturing facilities. So now there are local polishing and manufacturing factories in both countries operated by De Beers. De Beers is very transparent in how they run both the  mines and the cutting/polishing factories. The cutting facility is a state of the art modern factory. The average wage of Namibian diamond cutter at the facility is 30-50% higher than the average wage of the typical Namibian worker. The total employment from Namibia is around 3,000 to 2,500 people.The workers are given the right to unionize, benefits, and pension plans. So the overall benefits are very good.

However, in both Botswana & Namibia, they don’t cut all the stones there because it wouldn’t be cost effective. The percentage of stones cut there is 10-15% but it is growing. De Beers also supplements the cutting, by adding to the supply at the cutting facility with rough from their other mines. The large stones from the mine tend be cut in New York, Belgium, or Israel.

Can you tell me how the Kalahari stones are certified?

Our stones are GIA certified & then we have a third party EGL certification of origin. However, not everybody cares about where they come from so we only provide the certification of origin when the customer requests it. The diamond industry is a slow moving industry. It is not a cheetah, but more like a sloth.

How long do you think the mine will produce?

All mines have a life-span, however, it will be a long time before the Namibian mine stops producing. It is not in the foreseeable future.

Why are these projects just in Namibia and Bostwana and not other diamond producing countries? Do you think that this model will be a trend? What are the factors for expansion?

De Beers has an incentive to support the programs in both Botswana & Namibia. The governments in both of these countries are strategic for De Beers, and both governments were pushing for these types of programs. In terms, of other places where De Beers has mines like Canada or South Africa, the partnerships are less important. De Beers doesn’t have the partnership that it used to in South Africa, and South Africa is also a more diversified economy. Botswana & Namibia need the diamond economy.

Can you talk a bit more about the Finesse’s 88 cut diamond and how it  differentiates Finesse diamonds from the rest of the market? 

The 88 is a specialty cut desgned to offer a more brillant alternative to a round cut diamond. The 88 offers buyers a unique, patented shape with a design that emphasizes light performance.

Can you speak about the presence of diamonds in today’s market that are still conflict diamonds?

Most diamonds sourced today are conflict-free. There is only a small percentage of diamonds today that are not conflict-free. Currently conflict stones are coming from the Ivory Coast, the Eastern Coast of Congo (but a larger issue there is the mining of rare earth metals that are used to make cell phone batteries), and Zimbabwe. Zimbabwe, however, is still part of the Kimberly Certification, which is controversial. I think in a way that it is better that Zimbabwe has remained part of the Kimberly Certification because if they been kicked out it would have just created a black market.

What is your opinion of the Kimberly Certification?

The Kimberly Certification on its own doesn’t hold very much weight. Diamonds  can originate anywhere and still be smuggled into a country that is part of the Kimberly Certification.

What about smaller diamonds that only come with the Kimberly Certification. Is there any foreseeable solution to providing certification for the smaller diamonds?

Smaller diamonds are just not economical to certify. Smaller diamonds receive the Kimberly Certification when they are still rough, then they are polished and sold. The question is who is going to pay for the certification of the smaller stones? If the customer had to pay for the certification, it would make the stones too costly. It’s not worth it to the consumer or to the seller. It’s a problem of economics.

 In terms of the smaller diamonds that aren’t certified, is there any documentation or traceability of where the diamonds are cut & polished?

The only accountability is in knowing your supplier. Major retailers like Tiffany have very stringent KYC programs. That’s really the only way at this stage.

We have a lot of customers who want to do the most responsible thing when trying to choose between a recycled, Canadian, and Namibian diamond. Do you have an opinion about which stone is the most responsible?

Obviously, I am biased towards the Namibian diamonds. Any answer that you get is a subjective answer.  In Africa over 2 million peoples’ livelihood is derived from the mining industry. By choosing the recycled diamonds, you are in a way not participating in the industry, but you are also not supporting a needed economy.

 It is interesting to me that many of our customers are the  most interested in the Canadian diamonds which in my opinion seems like a less progressive option when compared to the Namibian diamonds. Why do you think Canadian diamonds are such a trend?

The Canadian diamonds are very popular right now. Rio Tinto did a very effective marketing campaign.

It’s important to participate in the dialogue on issues we believe to be important in our efforts to affect change. I believe that anyone should be allowed to marry the person they love, no matter what state they live in. Sadly, that’s not the case in most of the U.S.

Here are some things that get me: What if you spent your life with someone you wanted marry, but weren’t legally allowed? What if your loved one was injured or sick and in the hospital, and you weren’t allowed to visit them because you didn’t count as a family member? What if you weren’t allowed to file joint tax returns with your partner? What if you were denied rights given to a specific part of the U.S. population–but not you? Hundreds of thousands of same-sex couples experience this discrimination.

I have to admit that while doing a little research, it dawned on me that I didn’t know what in the first place had ever determined that it was NOT legal to marry someone of the same sex. The answer, as to be expected, is not so simple, but here is a little background if you’re interested (it get’s technical in parts…) The movement to obtain marriage rights and benefits for same-sex couples began in the late 1960′s in the U.S. In 1970, gay activist Jack Baker filed a suit after being denied a marriage license to marry another man, and in Baker v. Nelson the Minnesota Supreme Court ruled that limiting marriage to opposite-sex couples did not violate the constitution. Baker later changed his name to Pat Lynn McConnell and legally married his male partner in 1971.[1][2][3]  Fast forward to 1993 in Hawaii, where three same-sex couples were bringing a case against the state, arguing that the prohibition of same-sex marriages violated the state constitution. The trial court dismissed the case, and it went to the Supreme Court of Hawaii, which in 1996 ruled that denying marriage to same-sex couples constituted discrimination based on sex, thereby violating the state constitution’s equal protection guarantee. The court ordered the state of Hawaii to prove that it had a “compelling” reason to deny such marriages. [4] It was this very decision that then prompted the U.S. federal government to pass the Defense of Marriage Act (DOMA). DOMA was the first thing that actually codified the federal government’s lack of recognition of same-sex marriages, and it did this by defining marriage as the legal union of one man and one woman. DOMA was passed by both houses of Congress by huge majorities, and President Bill Clinton signed it into law on September 21st, 1996.[1] This marked the first time that the federal government had it’s own definition of marriage–prior to DOMA, the federal government did not define marriage and accepted any marriage that was accepted by a state even if that marriage wasn’t recognized by all states, as with interracial marriage before 1967.

A little more about DOMA: There two (of three) sections that are important to know about. Section 2 reserves the power of each state to determine whether it will honor the marriage of same-sex couples married in another state. Section 3 defines the words marriage (you already know how), and spouse (as “a person of the opposite sex who is a husband or a wife”), thereby codifying the non-recognition of same-sex marriage for all federal purposes, including insurance benefits for government employees, social security survivor’s benefits, joint tax returns, etc. [5]  The Obama Administration has given us hope in spite of DOMA. A letter sent from Attorney General Eric Holder to the Speaker of the House John Boehner, on February 23rd, 2011 states that the executive branch determined Section 3, as applied to same-sex couples who are legally married under state law, to be in violation of the 5th amendment’s equal protection component.[6] What that has come to mean in practice so far is that the Obama administration will continue to enforce DOMA, but will not defend it in court.

Same-sex marriage is legal in 6 states, Washington D.C, Oregon’s Coquille Tribe, and Washington’s Squamish Tribe. Massachusetts was the first state to legalize same-sex marriage, in 2004, and was followed by Connecticut, Iowa, New Hampshire, New York, Vermont, D.C., the Coquille Tribe, and the Squamish Tribe. The states of Washington and Maryland have started on the path toward legalizing same-sex marriages, and voter referendums are scheduled for November. In California, same-sex couples could get married from June 16th, 2008-November 4th, 2008, when Prop. 8, prohibiting same sex marriages, was passed. The state recognizes all same sex marriages from around the world that took place before November 4th, 2008. Maryland recognizes all same sex marriages from other jurisdictions. Maine approved same-sex marriage in 2009, but the law was almost immediately repealed in a voter referendum. This fall they’ll vote again. In New Hampshire, Representative David Bates filed a repeal bill in January 2011 right after the Republicans took control over the legislature, but house leaders decided to put it off until a future date because they had more important things to focus on, such as the budget. Recent polls show that 59% of New Hampshire voters are strongly or somewhat opposed to the repeal, and 32% are in support of it. Most recently, Governor Chris Christie of New Jersey vetoed a bill that was passed by the state legislature to legalize gay marriage last month. The state legislature has until January 2014 to override the veto, and it has to be by a two thirds majority. [7]  Many were disappointed by this decision, including Senate President Steve Sweeney, who called the veto a “shameful act hidden behind the guise of a public referendum,” and said that Christie had “planted his feet on the wrong side of history.” [7] That leaves 44 states, as long as New Hampshire doesn’t reverse it’s decision, that do not give same sex couples the same rights as everyone else.

So, what are some actions we can take? To start, voice your opinion, write about it, talk about it. If you live in a state where you are able to vote on the issue, go out and vote! Make sure you update your address if you are registered to vote, or sign up if you aren’t. You can sign a petition for same-sex marriage (there is one here on the Human Rights Campaign’s website, or you can create your own (dosomething.org has tips on how to write or start a petition here). Write a letter to your state senator or representative letting them know how you feel about same-sex marriage (you elected them, voice your opinion!). Contact the white house–President Obama vowed to fight for gay and lesbian rights–keep reminding him of his promise! Support gay schools, such as the Hetrick-Martin Institute, whose mission is to alleviate harassment and violence directed toward queer youth. To support Hetrik-Martin, contact the NYC Department of Ed. You could also provide funding to the Harvey Milk School. Write to gay-friendly churches letting them know that you are in support–one friendly email goes a long way in confirming gay clergymen. You could volunteer for an LGBT rights organization (there are many different ones to choose from–Lambda Legal, The Trevor Project, The Mazzoni Center for a local Philly organization–choose one whose mission you feel you can really get behind). You can also lobby for gay adoption–the American Bar just recently agreed to endorse this cause and lobby state for equal adoption rights. If you have other ideas, please post!

[1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Defense_of_Marriage_Act

[2] New York Times: Webster Schott, “Civil Rights and the Homosexual: A 4-Million Minority Asks for Equal Rights,” November 12, 1967

[3] New York Times: “Homosexual Wins Fight to Take Bar Examination in Minnesota,” January 7, 1973

[4] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baehr_v._Miike

[5] H.R. 3396 Defense of Marriage Act

[6] Attorney General Holder’s Letter to Speaker Boehner on DOMA Appeal: http://www.scribd.com/doc/49404879/Attorney-General-Holder-s-Letter-to-John-Boehner-on-DOMA-Appeal

[7] Chris Christie says no to N.J. gay marriage bill, would agree to strengthen civil union law, MaryAnn Spoto, The Star-Ledger

Matching Rings

Do I have to have a matching ring & metal to my fiancé?   What if we like different things?

While the option of getting matching bands made for you and your partner is certainly there, it’s also quite common for couples to get bands in different styles or metals.  A wedding band is a significant, weighted object that will be worn for a very long time.  It is important that you each find a band that you will be able to wear comfortably everyday.

We offer bands that compliment each other well if you are concerned with having the bands relate to one another. If you are each interested in a different metal or width than each other it is definitely possible for the bands to still have a common thread in style and aesthetic and vise versa.

Another option to bring a common ground to the bands is to get them engraved. This is a great way to bring a personal element to each band whether they are similar or not.

The most important thing is that each person is wearing a band that they love and want to wear forever. Your band should be significant to you and reflect your own personal style.  If you and your partner do agree on matching rings we are more then happy to accommodate sizing the bands appropriately.

         Reticulated Band

   Reticulated Narrow Band One

In the past we have had customers choose the Reticulated Band and the Reticulated Narrow Band One. These bands are not the same but have a very similar texture and style. We have made many variations of this style band and, as always, are ready to work on any custom ideas you may have to make a band that you will never want to take off.