Trending Now: East-West Rings

Not sure about you, but we've been seeing East-West style rings everywhere lately. Characterized by a horizontal stone positioning, East-West rings have a wide breadth of variety. From classic to modern and bold to minimal, there is an East-West ring to suit everyone's taste — no wonder the style has regained such popularity! Our Co- Founder and Lead Designer, Page Neal walks us through the origins and defining characteristics of East-West rings.

What Is An East-West Ring Design?

The east-west ring design is a beautiful nod to creative innovation in jewelry design, with origins tracing back to the Art Deco era of the mid-20th century. During this time, jewelers began to explore fresh ways of showcasing gemstones, and the horizontal orientation — what we now call the east-west setting — offered a new perspective. Traditional ring settings tend to place the gemstone vertically, drawing the eye upward in a way that feels classic and formal. The east-west setting, however, flips that perspective — literally — by orienting the stone horizontally along the band. This subtle shift creates a fresh, contemporary vibe that softens the formality of a piece and offers a different way of viewing the gemstone. It’s ideal for those who want their jewelry to feel unique yet wearable, with just enough of an unconventional element to spark conversation or draw attention.

What makes this design so special is how it reframes the gemstone itself. By placing the stone horizontally, the eye is drawn to the elongated shape, allowing cuts like ovals, marquise, and emeralds to take on a fresh vision with the gemstone as the showcase. We love how this orientation feels both modern and timeless — it’s a striking way to feature a stone’s natural beauty while stepping outside traditional design boundaries of engagement ring design. For our custom and heirloom redesigns, the east-west orientation is particularly interesting because it can completely transform the look and feel of a treasured gem, breathing new life into a family piece while maintaining its story. 

The East-West Charm

The east-west ring design has a special kind of charm that really resonates with today’s customers, particularly those looking for something more minimalist and gemstone-forward. I think its appeal lies in the simplicity of the design and that the focal point is the gemstone. Because the gemstone in the horizontal orientation takes up more surface area than the vertical orientation, the east-west rings tend to have less ornamentation and a more minimalist aesthetic. The horizontal orientation feels fresh and unexpected, making it perfect for clients who want their ring to stand out while still feeling timeless and elegant.

Stone Cuts That Work Well

Elongated gemstone cuts, such as oval, marquise, emerald, baguette, and pear, work best in an east-west setting because their proportions are accentuated when set horizontally. Non-traditional gemstones like colored sapphires, emeralds, morganites, and zircons are also popular choices for this design, allowing for added personality and individuality through color.

The Durability & Practicality

East-west settings are absolutely just as durable as a traditional vertical orientation. We offer our east-west rings in both prong and bezel settings. When we create an east-west ring, especially for clients who want to use heirloom gemstones, we take extra care to balance beauty with strength. Here are some things to consider when shopping for any ring:

• Choosing the right setting is key — secure options like prong, bezel, or half-bezel settings provide excellent protection while allowing the unique orientation to shine. We also reinforce the band to reduce stress on the gemstone’s sides, which can be slightly more exposed than in traditional vertical settings. 
• For clients who want their rings to stand up to daily wear, we often recommend harder gemstones like diamonds or sapphires, which naturally resist scratching and chipping. 
• Regular maintenance is another important factor in preserving the integrity of the ring and stone settings.

East-West's Staying Power

There's something so enduring about its simplicity and versatility — it really allows the beauty of a gemstone to take center stage. Whether you choose a classic diamond or an alternative gemstone, the horizontal setting feels both modern and timeless. Gemstones will also never go out of style and because this style ring is so much about the gemstone, we can’t imagine that it would be just a fleeting trend. The best part is how it works with so many different styles, from minimalist to more elaborate, and it can easily evolve with a client’s personal style over the years. Just like halo rings, which were once seen as unconventional but have become classic over time, we see the east-west setting following that same path. It’s also a style that is designed to stack with other rings, and what you choose to stack with your east-west ring could open up so many different potentials and aesthetics.  It’s a design that has the staying power to last beyond trends, especially when thoughtfully crafted and infused with personal meaning.